Chrysler PT Cruiser Street Cruiser: Air Conditioner Not Working

2008 PT Cruiser no cold air From A/C

Air Conditioner Not Working

Air conditioning allows the removal of heat from inside the vehicle. The basic principle used is that the heat is removed by the method of transferring and convection. An evaporator which is cold soaks up the heat from the air that is transferred through it and then cold air is pressured out via the vents inside the car by the blower motor. This is done by pressurizing refrigerant(Freon) (134a) with a compressor and then releasing refrigerant (134a) inside the air conditioner evaporator. There are many factors your air conditioner can blow warm air. A basic a/c gauge and test light is required to help identify most air conditioner problems.

With the engine running and the A/c button turned on - the a/c cmpressor should be on.
A/C Compressor Parts and Components:


Troubleshooting:

I'm assuming the blower motor works fine but the air just doesn't cool? If that's the case then it won't be a blown fuse. There aren't any fuses used for the compressor clutch.

There are quite a few possibilities for the a/c not working.

It could be low on charge, it could be a bad low or high pressure switch, the TIPM (module/fuse box under the hood), wiring, etc.

The most common cause of a/c not working is low charge, but pressure switch and TIPM issues on these cars aren't uncommon.

The first thing that should be done is check the charge level. If it's low then pressure switches won't close and the compressor won't engage.

If it's ok then the pressure switches will need to be looked at next.

This will help.
Thanks.

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For Car parts and diagrams:

schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com

CAR MANUAL GUIDE

                 

FOR FREE MANUALS AND GUIDES: ---

Car repair guide?

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For all types of car repair help:

repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com

Car Backfires

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For car repair How to guides:

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Engine Cooling Fan not Working

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/11/overheating-radiator-fan-not-working.html

"Radiator fan"  "Engine Fan"  "COOLING FAN WILL NOT TURN OFF"

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/11/radiator-fan-engine-fan-cooling-fan.html

LIFT GATE / TAIL GATE ISSUES

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/11/liftgate-will-not-open.html

TRUNK WILL NOT OPEN

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/11/trunk-will-not-open.html

CAR ALARM ISSUES

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/11/factory-alarmsecurity-system-alarmcar.html

Car starter removal, Starter motor testing, Starter repairs, Starter solenoid, Starter wiring,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/car-starter-removalstarter-motor.html

DOOR PANEL REMOVAL, car door panel, door panel components, front door panel, rear door panel,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/door-panel-removalcar-door-paneldoor.html

HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT, HEATER CORE REMOVAL, TROUBLESHOOT HEATER CORE, FLUSH HEATER CORE,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/heater-core-replacement-heater-core.html

CAR POWER SEAT, ELECTRIC SEAT, POWER SEAT WILL NOT WORK, SEAT WILL NOT GO FORWARD,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/car-power-seat-electric-seatpower-seat.html

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Timing belt routing diagrams for cars and trucks?

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Drive belt routing diagrams for cars and trucks?

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stalling issues:

Engine stalls, car stalls while starting, vehicle stalls while starting, Engine stalls and dies, Car stalls and stops,

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CRUISE CONTROL Not working, cruise control replacing, troubleshooting cruise control problems,

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TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS:

NO REVERSE ON TRANSMISSION

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/no-reverse-on-transmission.html

GEAR SHIFT ISSUES

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/11/gear-shift-issues.html

Transmission fluid leak, transmission gears slip,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/transmission-fluid-leak-transmission.html

TRANSMISSION REPLACING AND TROUBLESHOOTING, INSPECTING TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS, TRANSMISSION FAILURES, OD WARNING LIGHT,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/transmission-replacing-and.html

TRANSMISSION FLUID FILLING, WHERE TO FILL TRANSMISSION FLUID, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID, NO TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/transmission-fluid-filling-where-to.html

WINDSHIELD WIPERS, WINDSHIELD WIPERS NOT WORKING,WIPER MOTOR MAKING NOISE,NO WIPERS,WIPER FLUID LEAKS,WIPER FUSE AND RELAY,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/windshield-wipers-windshield-wipers-not.html

COOLANT LEAK ISSUES, COOLANT LEAK PROBLEMS, COOLANT SENSOR, LOW COOLANT,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/coolant-leak-issues-coolant-leak.html

BRAKE LIGHTS NOT WORKING, REPAIRING BRAKE LIGHTS, NO BRAKE LIGHTS,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/brake-lights-not-working-repairing.html

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT,ENGINE WARNING LIGHT FLASHING,ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH,DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHT,ECM ERROR CODES,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/check-engine-lightengine-warning-light.html

DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHTS ARE ON, ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH,WARNING LIGHTS STEADY ON DASH,RESET DASH BOARD WARNING INDICATOR,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/dashboard-warning-lights-are-on-engine.html

KEYFOB PROGRAMMING, REPROGRAMMING CAR KEY, KEYLESS ENTRY RESET,ANTITHEFT WILL NOT LET CAR TO START, ANTI THEFT ISSUES, KEYFOB NOT WORKING, KEYLESS ENTRY QUIT WORKING,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/keyfob-programming-reprogramming-car.html

IGNITION KEY WILL NOT RELEASE, IGNITION KEY STUCK UP, KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION, FAULTY IGNITION KEY LOCK CYLINDER, REPLACING IGNITION CYLINDER,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/ignition-key-will-not-release-ignition.html

HEATER ISSUES:

HEATER NOT BLOWING COLD,NO HOT AIR FROM HEATER,A/C BLOWS HOT AIR,A/C NOT BLOWING COLD, COLD AIR FROM HEATER,BLEND DOOR ACUTATOR CLOSED,HVAC UNIT NOT OPERATING,

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HEATER NOT BLOWING COLD,NO HOT AIR FROM HEATER,A/C BLOWS HOT AIR,A/C NOT BLOWING COLD, COLD AIR FROM HEATER,BLEND DOOR ACUTATOR CLOSED,HVAC UNIT NOT OPERATING,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/heater-not-blowing-coldno-hot-air-from.html

STEERING ISSUES:

POWER STEERING TROUBLESHOOTING, STEERING SQUEAKS, POWER STEERING FLUID LEAKS, FAULTY POWER STEERING PUMP, POWER STEERING NOT WORKING, POWER STEERING BELT,

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/power-steering-troubleshooting-steering.html

VEHICLE STARTING ISSUE:

CAR NO START: ENGINE NOT TURNING OVER:

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/11/car-no-start-engine-not-turning-over.html

2002 Dodge Ram 4.7 Faulty Crank Sensor

Dodge Crank Sensor Issue

Engine stall out at stop signs and red lights

United States 2002 Dodge Ram

Dodge PCM and Wiring Issue
Engine speed circuit malfunction
Speed input circuit malfunction
OBD Code P0320 & OBD Code P0725 On Dodge Ram
O2 Sensor issue on Dodge

Q: 2002 Dodge Ram 4.7, wires near the exhaust got hot and melted and set off the P0320 Code (engine speed circuit malfunction) and P0725 (Speed input circuit malfunction).Fixed the wires and problem solved. Last week this started again with the same codes. Now the wires look fine and the engine likes to stall out at stop signs and red lights. Then it wont start unless I unhook the battery for a minute and then it will start right up. All three O2 sensors error codes came up which is almost impossible that they all go bad at once. When unhook the battery it resets the PCM however; the light does not go off. Would I need a new crank speed sensor ? The wires go to a sensor in the side of the transmission. Could that sensor be bad?


A: There are few possibilities to be checked and confirmed.

Replace Crank Sensor

OBD codes P0320 and P0725 is coming up and the wiring for the exhaust is ok then almost surely you have a bad crank sensor. It's not uncommon for the crank sensor to fail this way and produce an intermittent signal, causing these codes and symptoms.
Crankshaft sensor it is located on the lower part of the engine just behind the harmonic balancer

Dodge Crank Sensor:

Oxygen Sensor

It is unlikely that multiple oxygen sensors would fail at exactly the same time. If the codes started to set at exactly the same time as the crank sensor issue then I would recommend repairing that first and see if maybe the oxygen sensor codes don't come back. It's unlikely that the problem is related but possible. It's possible that you have a wiring, sensor, or PCM problem, but it's unlikely that all three sensors would fail at the same time, if in fact all three codes had set at the same time.

Start with repairing the crank sensor issue, clear the codes and see what comes back before going much further with the oxygen sensor problem.


Transmission Sensor

The sensor on the right rear of the transmission is the line pressure sensor, it's not related to this issue.


Wire schematic of the crank sensor circuit

There are 3 wires.

1. The signal wire is gray/black, it goes from pin 1 of the sensor connector to pin 8 of PCM connector 1. PCM connector 1 is the solid black connector.
2. The sensor ground is the black/light blue wire in pin 2 of the sensor and it goes to PCM connector 1, pin 4.
3. The 5v supply wire is orange and runs from pin 3 at the sensor to PCM connector 1 pin 17.

Please Note: The crank sensor doesn't connect to the transmission speed sensors, the speed sensors are dedicated two wire circuits to the transmission control module.

This will help.

Thanks.

Dodge RAM 1500 Starting Problem

Warning Lights On Dodge Ram

Dodge Starting Issues

Multiple Warning Light indicators on Dashboard

Q: 2009 Ram 1500 4 door 2WD with the 4.7 engine. When it starts 5 of the dash board warning lights stay on. The Brake warning, ABS warning, ESP, ESP, and BAS Light. Two days after this it won't start.

Auto zone checked Battery, Alternator, And Starter. All good.


A: As per what the problem is described.

Dashboard warning Lights

The warning lights are likely going to be unrelated to the starting problem. These lights have come on because the ABS module has seen a failure somewhere in the system and set a fault code, the first thing that will need to be done to diagnose this is use a capable scan tool to see what fault codes have set.


Common Possibilities For warning light On Dash board

It could be anything from a wheel speed sensor to the ABS module itself, steering angle sensor, brake pressure sensor, wiring between the components, etc.


Dodge starting problem:

The starting problem sounds like it's a connection issue. If the battery was truly dead then you would have to jump start it, if all of a sudden battery voltage appears and you can start it that tells us there is a connection/voltage drop issue.

Things To try:

• The first thing to try is voltage drop test the positive and negative cables when this happens. 

• It can be poor connection right at the battery, inside the cable where the terminals crimp to it, a ground issue or a connection issue at the TIPM (fuse box/module under the hood). 

• It's also possible that the TIPM itself could be the issue.

This details will help.

Thanks.

Dodge Intrepid No Air On Dash Vents

No Cold Air From Dash Vents

No Heat From Dash Vents

HVAC Has No Air From Dash Vents

Car Ac problem

Dodge Heater problem

United States 1996 Dodge Intrepid Vehicle

Q: Problem Noticed With Heat/Air-condition System.

1996 Dodge Intrepid with the A/C & heat controls not switching the air flow to the dash vents.

Air is cold/hot as desired, but seems to be trapped under the dash...not coming out the heater vents or the dash vents.

Sometimes the dash vents work when the A/C is set to bring in outside air but not when set to recirculate inside air (Max). 

Also, it seems like decelerating to increase engine vacuum can sometimes "unstick" the controls and change the air flow.

A: There are few possibilities to be checked to confirm the problem.

Mode Door Issue:

If the mode door isn't operating then it could be the mode door itself, it's actuator, it's wiring, or the control head on the dash.

See the mode door diagram shown below:

Things To Try:

What you can do is unplug the control head and use a couple jumper wires along with a 9v battery to try and move the door. 

Applying power or ground on the dark blue/white and dark green/yellow wires will move the actuator, switching direction will turn the actuator the opposite direction. If this does change modes then you know the problem is the control head.

Other Possibilities: 

If that doesn't help then the next step will be to remove the actuator and see if you can move the door by hand. If you can move it by hand then odds are the actuator is bad; you can test the wiring before replacing the actuator if you are able to.

Dodge Intrepid Actuators:

The actuators are all electric and no vacuum is used on this system, so decelerating and having it work is coincidence.

Actuator Location

The actuator is on the bottom of the heater box right above the transmission tunnel area and is accessible without removing the heater box unlike some vehicles.
You have to remove the center console and the left and right lower ducts, which isn't that bad compared to what it could be.


Blend Door Issue:

If the door itself is bound up or broken then the heater box would need to be removed, which requires dash removal. If it does work sometimes then it's very unlikely that the door is broken.

This details will help.
Thanks.

2008 Jeep Liberty Sunroof Glass Leak

Sunroof Glass Water leak

Water Leak From Sunroof
Passenger side water leak from sunroof

United Stated 2008 Chrysler Jeep Liberty


Q: 2008 Jeep Liberty Limited with sunroof. With every rain I have a water leak appear right above the passenger side pillar. Leak issue checked at least 5 times now through the dealership. All tubes have been replaced, header replaced, every crack to be found sealed and still it continues.

A: Sunroof glass seal Issue

The sunroof glass seal could definitely be the source of the problem. It's normal for a small amount of water to leak past the glass, into the drain trough and out of the tubes, but if the seal isn't stopping enough water then it will overcome the capabilities of the drain system. This will allow water to run over the side of the drain trough and into the headliner or A pillar trim.


Things To Try:

What I would do is run water on the sunroof and try to see if excessive water is coming past the glass. If so then you know the seal or glass adjustment is the issue. If the glass isn't sitting in the right spot of the opening then the seal can't conform to the opening correctly.

Using Sealant to Stop The Leak:

If you wanted to seal the glass off and stop using the sunroof you could use a silicone sealer, although it would take a little bit of effort to remove when you wanted to start using it again. Another option would be butyl tape, which is a thick sticky roll,  you can use it to fill gaps and joints, somewhat like modeling clay.It will also help to stop the leak,but sunroof cannot be used.

Permanent option is to replace the seal completely.

This details will help.
Thanks.

2006 Caravan OBD code P0480

Obd Code P0480 on Dodge

Engine Cooling Fan Not Coming ON.

Temp gauge jumps high with A/C running

United States 2006 Dodge Caravan Vehicle.

Q: 2006 Caravan with code P0480. Replaced fan relay, thermostat, coolant sensor, and tested fan motors (fans run on direct connect to battery).

Fans will not kick on and temp gauge hits top end if running A/C...otherwise gauge holds at about mid-level.


A: There are few possibilities to cause such problems.
Some wiring and component testing is required.

Make sure you have a test light or voltmeter to do some simple testing at the relay which controls Fan.

Locate the fan relay in engine fuse box.Then unplug the relay and test it's power and ground feed.

HOW TO TEST FAN RELAY:

Ground the black meter lead or the alligator clip end of your test light and probe the orange/red wire in the relay connector and make sure the test light lights up.

Then take the meter lead or alligator clip to battery positive and probe the black/dark green wire and make sure it lights up.

If all checks out ok then use jumper trick.Jumper trick helps to confirm the problem with relay or its faulty fan.


Where To Use jumper wire:
With the relay plugged back in and the fans plugged in, insert a straightened paperclip into the back side of the relay connector on the dark blue/violet wire. If you attach a jumper wire between the paperclip and ground it should cause the fans to run at full speed. Properly inspect Does this allow the fans to run?
If no then it can be faulty relay or fan motor.

If both fans came on when I touched to ground

That means the relay is good,and the wiring from the relay to the fans is good.

Testing PCM:

Next is to test PCM. You need to go to the powertrain control module (PCM), which is located in the front of the left front wheel. You'll have to pull back the wheel well liner to access it. There locate the dark blue/violet wire there which should be in pin 6 of the black/white connector. There is a discrepancy in the wire color so I'd like to pop the back cover off the connector and check the wire color. It will be in the top row and should be dark blue/violet, but may be brown/violet.

Once  located the correct wire  jump it to ground the same way as at the relay and see if the fans come on.
Make sure you do this with ignition OFF.

If fans are not coming ON.
Then next step is Bypassing the PCM module

Bypassing the wiring thru the power module

For this go back a little way from the connector and strip a small section of the wire, plug the connector back in and run a temporary jumper wire between there and the relay. At the relay connect the wire to the dark blue/violet wire.

Then clear the code, start the engine and turn on the a/c to see if the fans work again.

As per schematics the wire is br/vt going into module and then db/vt coming out to relay.Inspect this wire and connect jumper between this wire.
Many a times this wire gets cut or crimped in between causing such problem.

This details will help.
Thanks.

Cruise Control Stop Working?

2001 Durango Cruise Control Light Stop Working

2001 Durango with the 4.7 V8 2wheel drive. What would cause the cruise control to stop working all of the sudden?

Previous Issues:
Had A/C issues with not blowing cold, pumped out the system and recharged also find the vacuum leak that has been keeping the check engine light on and fixing. The cruise light comes on when turned on but will not set.

Already Checked:
Have checked all the fuses  all are good. Any ideas?

More Suggestions Required:
Also would like opinion about A/C. Was blowing warm up front, but cooler in back( rear A/C), was recommended to vacuum system and recharge (in case had any air in it), did just that. It blows cold on both ends now while going down the road but still seems to struggle while idling or stuck in slow traffic. What else can I do check?


POSSIBLE TROUBLESHOOTING SOLUTIONS:

• There are quite a few things that will stop cruise from working. The cruise switches, brake switch, cruise servo, wiring, throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, trans related or some ABS related issues will prevent cruise from working. 
• If the cruise stopped working after some work was done under the hood then the first thing to check and confirm is the servo has vacuum, a line may be off or pinched. With the engine running remove the vacuum line from the servo and make sure it does have vacuum.

• The next thing to do from there would be checking for fault codes. Many of the possible causes will set a fault code, including some causes that may seem unrelated. If vacuum is ok and no codes are set then monitoring some data on a scan tool may be necessary to see why it isn't working.

There are several possible problems with the cruise control system. 1- loss of vacuum to the servo. The servo pulls the cable that opens the throttle . It is located under the battery tray. The servo can get battery acid on it. The acid can eat a hole in the servo or- most likely the vacuum line that feeds the servo.

There should be a strong vacuum with the engine running at the vacuum line to the servo. If no vacuum if felt- back trace the line to the reservoir located under the cowl on the passengers side.

There is a vacuum line that connects the tank with the vacuum supply from the engine,. The other problem we see often is the clock spring assembly in the steering wheel has a bad internal circuit,This part connects the switches wiring through the column to the under dash wiring harness. And the switches can become dirty and not make connections,. A scan tool is used to monitor the switch output from the steering wheel controls, Some times pushing the switches will clean them up enough to work for awhile.



The A/C Problem 
The original a/c problem sounds like a bad front expansion valve, but I wouldn't replace it unless you start having a temperature difference between front and rear again. If it cools ok when driving but warms up at stops that is a sign there is little or no airflow over the condenser because of a fan issue. Depending on build you may have just an engine driven fan, just an electric fan or both. Whichever system you have, it sounds like the fan isn't turning on or engaging while you are stopped.

Getting all this Possibilities Checked And Confirmed will Help.
Thanks.

Dodge W250 4x4 Charging System Problem

Vehicle Charging System Problem

PCM Wiring Issue On Dodge 

93 dodge w250 diesel has charging problem.Replaces the alternator and the cps sensor reads good also the relays work fine.The truck wont charge while the wait to start light is on but after awhile it goes off and it starts charging, tried cleaned all ground connections and still it dont charge sometimes it takes a hour before the charging system kicks.Is it a bad pcm?


Troubleshooting Solutions For The Problem:

Yes It Seems Like Its A Faulty PCM:

• It does sound like you have a bad PCM. What would often happen with these SMEC type PCM's is they would partially power up when the key is first turned on but they wouldn't fully come alive and operate. If you're seeing the wait to start light come on for that amount of time and the charging system doesn't work then that tells me the PCM isn't fully coming alive.

Another Possibility Can Be Faulty Crank Sensor:

• How was the crank sensor tested? Internally shorted crank sensors did cause some problems on these, they could take the PCM down. It's suggested to unplug the sensor at the time the wait to start light won't go out, make sure the light doesn't go out. If it goes out as soon as the sensor is unplugged then you know the sensor is the issue.

Inspect Electrical Connectors And Ground Wire Connections:

• I would verify the PCM powers and grounds are good at the time it acts up. The best thing to do would be use a headlamp or fog lamp bulb and a couple jumper wires and if the bulb lights brightly this will ensure the circuits are capable of supporting a load.

PCM Wiring Test Details:

• You should have battery voltage on the dark blue wire in pin 9.

• You should have battery voltage on the red wire in pin 3.

• You should have ground on the black/tan wire in pin 11 and 12.

Why It Seems PCM Is The Possibility?

The flickering of the wait to start light and ASD relays and then the charging system starts working is a sure sign that the problem is internal in the PCM. 

Try load test the powers and grounds when it is acting up to be sure, but what you are having is a common failure mode of a SMEC type PCM and replacing the PCM is going to be necessary.

Installing/ Replacing Voltage Regulator

If you didn't need or don't have an automatic trans, cruise control, speedometer or a/c then you can install an external voltage regulator and not worry about the PCM. A correctly installed and known good voltage regulator will allow it to charge, although if the PCM isn't working you wont be able to use the charging gauge/battery light in the dash to know that it is charging.

This Details Will Help.

Thanks.

Chrysler eclipse Stalls & Stops At Idle Randomly

Stalling At Idle Issues

97 eclipse manual 420A non-turbo motor stalls and stops at idle randomly, it always starts right back up. Sometimes won't start on 1st try then immediately starts on 2nd. Also jerks or bucks while driving but not all the time. If cruise is on it will jerk & cut off. Reminds me of an automatic trying to climb hill & can't decide to gear up or down rpms remain the same while this happens.


Troubleshooting Possibilities For This Problem:

First of all there are many possibilities that can cause this types of problem.But as per the problem described most of the common possibilities are ruled out.To confirm the problem for remaining possibility,its suggested to get vehicle engine control module scanned with scan tool.
You may end up having to monitor data on a scan tool at the time it acts up to be able to see what is happening.


It can be the Sensor Problem:

One thing I see you haven't replaced is the cam sensor. For your vehicle engine model the cam sensor mounts to the left end of the cylinder head and runs off the intake cam. If the cam sensor signal drops out it will cause the problems you are having, but it would usually set a code.


Crank sensor or Cam sensor Shorting:

One thing that isn't uncommon on these engines is an internally shorted cam or crank sensor taking out the opposite sensor. They both share an 8v reference circuit that they need to be able to produce a signal. If one sensor or the other internally shorts the sensor ground to the 8v reference then it will drag the reference down and prevent both the cam and crank sensors from producing a signal.


No Sensor Reference Signal To PCM:
No Error Code Set But Still A Faulty sensor:

A cam or crank sensor code will set if the PCM sees a signal from one sensor but not the other, it knows the engine is turning if it sees one sensor. If one of them shorts internally and takes down both signals then a code can't set even though one sensor is bad. If your cam sensor is shorting internally that explains the symptoms but lack of codes.


Possibilities To Try:
I recommend to get engine module scanned.But if no scan tool is available I would recommend replacing the cam sensor with a factory part (aftermarket sensors are known to cause many issues).


Jerking and Bucking while driving at High Speeds:

The same problem of faulty sensor or no signal for any of sensor  is causing both the jerking and bucking while driving at higher speeds, but since the engine is turning faster at those times it doesn't die like it does at idle or low speed.

Also It can be Faulty PCM:

It's possible that the powertrain control module (PCM) could be causing this or it could be a wiring issue but these possibilities are less likely than a cam sensor failure. Replacing the PCM would be a last resort if all else can be ruled out.


This details will help.
Thanks.