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Showing posts with label A/C. Show all posts
Showing posts with label A/C. Show all posts

Sunday, September 22, 2013

How to replace A/c evaporator on kia sephia

A/c Evaporator Core Removal On Kia Vehicle


Follow This Step By Step Procedure To replace Evaporator Core on Kia:----

Sephia
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    CAUTION
    After disconnecting the negative battery cable, wait for at least 10 minutes for the SRS module to deplete its stored energy.
  3. Position the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  4. Remove the 4 steering wheel-to-air bag module bolts.
  5. Remove the air bag module and disconnect the electrical connector.
  6. Remove the steering wheel-to-steering column nut.
  7. Remove the steering wheel from the steering column.
  8. Remove the 2 screws and the glove box at the bottom of the glove box.
  9. Remove the passenger side cover and pull the connector from the T bar side bracket.
  10. Remove the 4 air bag module-to-instrument panel bolts.
  11. Remove the air bag module, disconnect the electrical connector and remove the air bag module.
  12. Drain the cooling system into a clean container for reuse.
  13. Discharge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
  14. Remove the center panel trim.
  15. Remove the console.
  16. Remove the side cover.
  17. Remove the lower left side cover.
  18. Remove the steering column-to-instrument panel bolts and lower the steering column.
  19. Remove the instrument cluster trim.
  20. Remove the instrument cluster and disconnect the electrical connectors.
  21. Remove the ventilation control panel and disconnect the electrical connectors.
  22. Remove the radio and disconnect antenna and electrical connector.
  23. Remove the center panel.
  24. Disconnect the electrical harness connectors.
  25. Remove the instrument panel-to-chassis bolts and remove the instrument panel.
  26. Disconnect the control cable from the heater housing.
  27. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core.
  28. Remove the heater housing.
  29. Remove the heater core from the heater housing.
    Steering and Airbag assembly for kia

    30. Fig. Exploded view of the steering wheel and air bag module assembly-Sephia

  1. kia airbag module
    Fig. Exploded view of the passenger-s side air bag module assembly-Sephia


    Kia Dashboard assembly removal
    Fig. Exploded view of the instrument panel assembly-Sephia


    heater core kia removal
    Fig. View of the heater housing-Sephia

some tips for anyone doing the Evap core removal and installing:---

-You don't have to remove the steering wheel. The steering column is held on to the dashboard frame and firewall by four 12-mm bolts. Remove them, and the paneling underneath the steering column, and you can drop the whole assembly and work over it. This way, the driver side airbag doesn't have to be removed either.

-The evaporator/blower box comes out as one piece. It's to the right of the heater core box. Once you get it fully unscrewed from the firewall, you'll notice it still can't be removed. That's because the evaporator is bolted through the firewall, and there are three bolts under the hood that hold the pipe in place. You'll have to remove these bolts, but THE SYSTEM WILL BE OPEN once you do. Be sure there is no pressure or vacuum in the line before you open it, and once you remove the evap/blower box, cap the opening in the firewall until you're ready to install the new assembly. After opening and sealing the system, you'll have to get a mechanic to evacuate it before you run the A/C. This is crucial - if you don't remove every little bit of moisture and dust, you could blow your compressor. Work quickly and keep your work area clean when you open the refrigerant line.

-Drape a blanket over the back of the crash panel when you're ready to pull it out of the car, so the sharp edges don't scratch your windshield or the paneling on your doors. It's a heavy piece, and it's a very tight squeeze to get it in and out of the car, so I'd recommend getting someone to help. Be careful with the dashboard so you don't bend it - you need to be sure all the mounting bolts line up when you put it back (one of mine won't go back where it belongs).

-LABEL YOUR WIRE HARNESSES. I did this by attaching a strip of duct tape to each one and writing on the tape with a sharpie. If you're like me and you know absolutely nothing about wiring, or cars in general, then this will be essential for putting everything back together. Leave notes for yourself, so you know how to plug it all back in. I also kept track of where all the screws and bolts went - for each component of the dashboard, I would remove the screws and bolts and put them in an envelope with the correct label. 

Installing Procedure In step by step details:---

  1. Install the heater core to the heater housing.
  2. Install the heater housing.
  3. Connect the heater hoses to the heater core.
  4. Connect the control cable to the heater housing.
  5. Install the instrument panel and the instrument panel-to-chassis bolts.
  6. Connect the electrical harness connectors.
  7. Install the center panel.
  8. Connect the antenna and electrical connector and install the radio.
  9. Connect the electrical connectors and install the ventilation control panel.
  10. Connect the electrical connectors and install the instrument cluster.
  11. Install the instrument cluster trim.
  12. Install the steering column-to-instrument panel bolts.
  13. Install the lower left side cover.
  14. Install the side cover.
  15. Install the console.
  16. Install the center panel trim.
  17. Install the passenger-s side air bag module and connect the electrical connector.
  18. Install the 4 air bag module-to-instrument panel bolts and torque the bolts to 18-32 ft. lbs. (24-43 Nm)
  19. Install the connector to the T bar side bracket and the side cove
  20. Install the glove box and the 2 screws at the bottom of the glove box.
  21. Install the steering wheel to the steering column.
  22. Install the steering wheel-to-steering column nut and torque the nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
  23. Install the driver-s side air bag module and connect the electrical connector.
  24. Install the 4 steering wheel-to-air bag module bolts and torque to 72-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm)
  25. Refill the cooling system.
  26. Connect the negative battery cable.
  27. Evacuate, charge and leak test the air conditioning system.
  28. Operate the engine to normal operating temperatures; then, check the climate control operation and check for leaks.

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Thursday, July 18, 2013

Chrysler PT Cruiser Street Cruiser: Air Conditioner Not Working

2008 PT Cruiser no cold air From A/C

Air Conditioner Not Working

Air conditioning allows the removal of heat from inside the vehicle. The basic principle used is that the heat is removed by the method of transferring and convection. An evaporator which is cold soaks up the heat from the air that is transferred through it and then cold air is pressured out via the vents inside the car by the blower motor. This is done by pressurizing refrigerant(Freon) (134a) with a compressor and then releasing refrigerant (134a) inside the air conditioner evaporator. There are many factors your air conditioner can blow warm air. A basic a/c gauge and test light is required to help identify most air conditioner problems.

With the engine running and the A/c button turned on - the a/c cmpressor should be on.
 A/C Compressor Parts and Components:
Chrysler Pt Cruise A/c Compressor Removal Diagram

 Troubleshooting:

I'm assuming the blower motor works fine but the air just doesn't cool? If that's the case then it won't be a blown fuse. There aren't any fuses used for the compressor clutch.

There are quite a few possibilities for the a/c not working.

It could be low on charge, it could be a bad low or high pressure switch, the TIPM (module/fuse box under the hood), wiring, etc.

The most common cause of a/c not working is low charge, but pressure switch and TIPM issues on these cars aren't uncommon.

The first thing that should be done is check the charge level. If it's low then pressure switches won't close and the compressor won't engage.

If it's ok then the pressure switches will need to be looked at next.

This will help.
Thanks.

ALSO VIEW THIS RELATED:

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CAR MANUAL GUIDE
                 
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stalling issues:
Engine stalls, car stalls while starting, vehicle stalls while starting, Engine stalls and dies, Car stalls and stops,


CRUISE CONTROL Not working, cruise control replacing, troubleshooting cruise control problems,


TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS:

NO REVERSE ON TRANSMISSION

GEAR SHIFT ISSUES

Transmission fluid leak, transmission gears slip,


TRANSMISSION REPLACING AND TROUBLESHOOTING, INSPECTING TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS, TRANSMISSION FAILURES, OD WARNING LIGHT,


TRANSMISSION FLUID FILLING, WHERE TO FILL TRANSMISSION FLUID, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID, NO TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK,


WINDSHIELD WIPERS, WINDSHIELD WIPERS NOT WORKING,WIPER MOTOR MAKING NOISE,NO WIPERS,WIPER FLUID LEAKS,WIPER FUSE AND RELAY,


COOLANT LEAK ISSUES, COOLANT LEAK PROBLEMS, COOLANT SENSOR, LOW COOLANT,


BRAKE LIGHTS NOT WORKING, REPAIRING BRAKE LIGHTS, NO BRAKE LIGHTS,


CHECK ENGINE LIGHT,ENGINE WARNING LIGHT FLASHING,ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH,DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHT,ECM ERROR CODES,


DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHTS ARE ON, ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH,WARNING LIGHTS STEADY ON DASH,RESET DASH BOARD WARNING INDICATOR,


KEYFOB PROGRAMMING, REPROGRAMMING CAR KEY, KEYLESS ENTRY RESET,ANTITHEFT WILL NOT LET CAR TO START, ANTI THEFT ISSUES, KEYFOB NOT WORKING, KEYLESS ENTRY QUIT WORKING,


IGNITION KEY WILL NOT RELEASE, IGNITION KEY STUCK UP, KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION, FAULTY IGNITION KEY LOCK CYLINDER, REPLACING IGNITION CYLINDER,


HEATER ISSUES:

HEATER NOT BLOWING COLD,NO HOT AIR FROM HEATER,A/C BLOWS HOT AIR,A/C NOT BLOWING COLD, COLD AIR FROM HEATER,BLEND DOOR ACUTATOR CLOSED,HVAC UNIT NOT OPERATING,



HEATER NOT BLOWING COLD,NO HOT AIR FROM HEATER,A/C BLOWS HOT AIR,A/C NOT BLOWING COLD, COLD AIR FROM HEATER,BLEND DOOR ACUTATOR CLOSED,HVAC UNIT NOT OPERATING,



STEERING ISSUES:

POWER STEERING TROUBLESHOOTING, STEERING SQUEAKS, POWER STEERING FLUID LEAKS, FAULTY POWER STEERING PUMP, POWER STEERING NOT WORKING, POWER STEERING BELT,



VEHICLE STARTING ISSUE:

CAR NO START: ENGINE NOT TURNING OVER:



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Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Cruise Control Stop Working?

2001 Durango Cruise Control Light Stop Working


2001 Durango with the 4.7 V8 2wheel drive. What would cause the cruise control to stop working all of the sudden?

Previous Issues:
Had A/C issues with not blowing cold, pumped out the system and recharged also find the vacuum leak that has been keeping the check engine light on and fixing. The cruise light comes on when turned on but will not set.

Already Checked:
Have checked all the fuses  all are good. Any ideas?

More Suggestions Required:
Also would like opinion about A/C. Was blowing warm up front, but cooler in back( rear A/C), was recommended to vacuum system and recharge (in case had any air in it), did just that. It blows cold on both ends now while going down the road but still seems to struggle while idling or stuck in slow traffic. What else can I do check?


POSSIBLE TROUBLESHOOTING SOLUTIONS:


  • There are quite a few things that will stop cruise from working. The cruise switches, brake switch, cruise servo, wiring, throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, trans related or some ABS related issues will prevent cruise from working. 
  • If the cruise stopped working after some work was done under the hood then the first thing to check and confirm is the servo has vacuum, a line may be off or pinched. With the engine running remove the vacuum line from the servo and make sure it does have vacuum.
  • The next thing to do from there would be checking for fault codes. Many of the possible causes will set a fault code, including some causes that may seem unrelated. If vacuum is ok and no codes are set then monitoring some data on a scan tool may be necessary to see why it isn't working.
Cruise control,vacuum lines and servo

There are several possible problems with the cruise control system. 1- loss of vacuum to the servo. The servo pulls the cable that opens the throttle . It is located under the battery tray. The servo can get battery acid on it. The acid can eat a hole in the servo or- most likely the vacuum line that feeds the servo.

There should be a strong vacuum with the engine running at the vacuum line to the servo. If no vacuum if felt- back trace the line to the reservoir located under the cowl on the passengers side.

There is a vacuum line that connects the tank with the vacuum supply from the engine,. The other problem we see often is the clock spring assembly in the steering wheel has a bad internal circuit,This part connects the switches wiring through the column to the under dash wiring harness. And the switches can become dirty and not make connections,. A scan tool is used to monitor the switch output from the steering wheel controls, Some times pushing the switches will clean them up enough to work for awhile.



The A/C Problem 
The original a/c problem sounds like a bad front expansion valve, but I wouldn't replace it unless you start having a temperature difference between front and rear again. If it cools ok when driving but warms up at stops that is a sign there is little or no airflow over the condenser because of a fan issue. Depending on build you may have just an engine driven fan, just an electric fan or both. Whichever system you have, it sounds like the fan isn't turning on or engaging while you are stopped.

Getting all this Possibilities Checked And Confirmed will Help.
Thanks.

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